Chart for garment-patterns.



A. DEL. SIVIITH.

CHART FOR GARNIENT PATTERNS.

APPLICATION FILED FEB. I5, |909.

Patented Apr. 20, 1915.

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THE NURRIS PETERS 60,. PHDTO-L-ITHU., wAsHlNuwlv. v.

A. DEL. SMITH.

CHART FOR GARMENT PATTERNS.

APPLICATION man FEB. 15. 1909.

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THE NrJRR/S PETERS Co.. FHOTO-LITHO., WASHINGTON, D. C

A. DEL. SMITH.

CHAART FOR GARWIENT PATTERNS.

'APPLICATION FILED FEB. I5, 1909.

Patented Apr. 20, 119115.

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@vih/gooey @MMM uw l Q l l l THE NORRIS PETERS CO.. PHOTOLITHD..WASHINGTON, D. C

ANNESLEY DE LOS SMITH, OF MOUNT VERNON, NEW YORK.

CHART FOR GARIVLENT-PATTERNS.

Application filed February 15, 1909.

T0 all whom t may concern Be it known that I, ANNESLEY DE Los SMITH, acitizen of the United States, resid-i ing at Mount Vernon, in the countyof Westchester and State of New York, have invented certain new anduseful Improvements in Charts for Garment-Patterns, of which thefollowing is a specification.

My invention relates to charts for laying out patterns for waists, forlinings and for covers, shapes, or molds for infiatable garment forms.The word garment will be used for convenience as an inclusive term.

I am aware that many attempts have been made to construct charts forlaying out patterns by various systems. It is my object te simplify theoperation and produce more accurate patterns.

The details of the preferred construction will be understood from thefollowing description. In its simplest form my system contemplates thetaking of only a few measurements. For the back I take the circumferenceof the neck, the bust, the waist and the hips and the length of backfrom neck to waist. For the front in addition I measure from the neck tothe bust line and from the neck diagonally to the waist under the arm.The latter measure will be called the diagonal. Then it is noted if theshoulders are square, normal or sloping and whether the ligure isstraight front or has a prominent abdomen. For the sleeve I measure thecircumference of the arm at its fullest point just below the shoulderand also at the elbow and at the wrist also distance from elbow to wristand from elbow to the full arm point and from the shoulder down to thislatter line on the outside. All the other measures, curves, etc., aredetermined by the chart itself.

Figure 1 shows the chart for the back 'with a sample pattern in dottedlines. Fig. 2 shows the chart for the side of the back. Fig. 3 shows thechart for the under arm portion. Fig. 4c shows the chart for the frontportion. Fig. 5 shows the curves for the dart lines. Fig. 6 shows thechart for laying olf the curve of the front portion from waist to hipbeneath the arm. Fig. 7 shows the chart for the outer portion of thesleeve. Fig. 8 shows the chart for the inner portion of the sleeve.

A. set of sample measures are set off and the patterns determinedthereby are shown in heavy dotted lines. Only a few numbersSpecification of Letters Patent.

Patented Apr. 2U, 1915.

serial No. 478,039.

and points are shown but it will be understood that points for any sizesor fractional measurements may be provided. It is impossible toillustrate them all on the necessarily small scale of these drawings.

rIhe invention will perhaps be most easily understood by followingthrough the measurements of the example selected and laying down thecorresponding pattern. The measurements taken are the following; 'neck13 inches, bust 42 inches, length of back lll inches, waist 26 inches,hips 44 inches, neck to top of dart 9 inches, diagonal from neck infront to waist under arm 16 inches, elbow 12 inches, wrist 6 inches,upper arm 14E inches, elbow to wrist 9 inches, elbow to upper arm-scye 9inches, shoulder to armscye 1 inches, shoulders normal and gure straightfront or normal.

It should be understood that in planning the chart all circumferentialmeasurements are divided into parts corresponding with the properproportions of the different parts of the chart. For instance-the neckmeasure being 13 inches only about one and seven eighths inches isactually laid off and drawn along the neck curve A, B, Fig. 1. Thenumbers printed on the chart are however the full measurements. The restof the neck scye is made up by the other half of the back and the twoparts of the front. It is the same with the bust measurements C and D.The location of the latter points is determined by plotting the averagesof actual patterns. A line is drawn down the righthand edge of the chartFig. 1 (which edge corresponds with the center line of the back) 14 fromA to E, the length of back. Opposite E is punched F at the waist measure26". The chart herein only shows waist measure of 18, 26 and 34 inchesbut of course intermediate measures will be indicated on a full sizedchart. The lower part of the chart has hip measures laid off atapproximately 6 inches below the waist measures which is the averagedistance. The numerals of length of back however are printed on thechart as this avoids confusion.

The point G at length of back 14 is marked 1 and the hip measure 44opposite thereto is punched at II. The edge a is then used as a rulerfor guiding a chalk or pencil to trace the shoulder seam curve from B toC, the

upper end of the edge a being laid at B to 3 start. The arm seam curveis then traced from C to I) along edge Z). The curve of the left side ofthe vback is traced in a 'similar way, using edge o as a'ruler andbeginning at the lowjer end from F to D.. Points ll and G are thenconnected by straight lines and extended below and similarly points Fand H. The lower right hand edge of the back portion ofthe chart beingott-l set to the right of the center line of the back gives thenecessary flare to the lower part oi: the center seam over the hips.

From the side back portion'of the chart (Fig. 2), the length of back 14;is laid off and drawn along the curve from D to F which corresponds withthe Asea-m curve Afrom D to F F ig.- 1. The hip point H corresponding toH is then checked and the points J, K and L are punched for the properbust, waist, and hip measures. The edge CZ beginning at its lower end,is used to trace the seam curve from J to D. The edge e beginning at itslower end is used to t-race the seam curve from K to J. Points F and Hare connected by a straight 'line which is extended below. Edge fbeginning lat its upper end is used to trace the hip seam curve from Kto 'L and extended. The under arm l portion of the chart shown in Fig. 3is used in a similar manner. Bust measures however are laid off alongthe upper end of the right hand edge. The point J corresponding withpoint J of Fig. 2 is checked accordingly. The vcurve corresponding withseam curve J to K is drawn along the right hand edge from J to K at 111length of back. y y

y K L isa straight line corresponding with hip seam curve K L. Points M,N `and 0 are punched at the proper bust, waist and hip sizes Ias before.The edge J', beginning vat its lower end, is used yto trace the curvefrom M to J. Edge h, beginning at its lower end, is used to trace thecurve from N to M. An arbitrary scale is laid off along edge L and thepoint 19gwhich falls on poi-nt M in drawing the cu-rve from N to M isnoted. This corresponds with the location 01a the under arm seam point.The sea-le along might be in inches representing the approximatedistance from the waist li-ne to theV under arm seam but T prefer anarbitrary scale so as to prevent confusion which might arise from anattempt to take this measure from the figure. The purpose of determiningthe location of the under arm point will be understood when consideringthe pattern for the front of the garment. The edge z' beginning at itsupper end, is used in tracing the curves from N to '0. It will be notedin Figs. 1, '2 and 3 that the lines representing the hip measurementsare approximately at right angles to the center lines of the patternslaid oli'.

For the front portion of the pattern a line is drawn down the left handedge of ythe chart Fig. 4; and around the neck curve from P to B at 13.The upper shoulder point C and the under arm point M are punched throughat the proper bust measure L12. rThe shoulder seam line is then drawnfrom B lto C using the edge beginning at the notch at the lelt, as aguide. The arm seam curve is drawn from M to C using the edge mbeginning at bust measure point 412, as a guide. In the form shown thereare two darts or gores and this is the preferred method. The tops of thedarts aie at Q, and R 9 below the neck at the bust measure L12. The sizeof the darts is determined by the difference between the bust and waistmeasure and the location is determined by the waist measure. The pointsare laid olf along curves having their common center at a point near Pwhich serves as a pivot. In the example taken the diagonal measurementis 16""and the `points laid oli' are S, T, U, V and VJ on a curve whosecenter is l).

Scales Iof waist measures are laid ott' along one of the curves such asS T U V W and the other concentric curves beginning at the left side ofthe chart Fig. 4, and extending to the observation points such as s.From s along curve S. T. U. V. lV. another scale of measuresrepresenting the dil'lerence between bust and waist measures is laid olfextend ing to the left of the second observation opening such as t. Fromthe left oil the open-ing t, is laid oli' to the right, another scale ofwaist measures, the zero o1 this scale being at the observation point uand the scale running toward the lett with waist measures such as 18, 2Gand 34 as shown. From u another scale o1. measures representing thedifference between the bust and waist measures is laid off toward theright to observation point o and from o another scale of waist measuresis laid off to the right. The left hand edge of the chart Fig. 4Lconstitutes the lirst base line. The line of observation points such asthe heavy vertical line through s constitutes a second base line. Thevertical heavy line through u constitutes a third base line. Thevertical line through 'v' constitutes a fourth base line. We first punchpoint S on the arc of diagonal 16 at the vertical line marked 26, thewaist measure. The chart is then swung around its center near P untilthe opening or transparent point s comes over point S. Now the diierencebetween the bust and waist measure is 112 minus 2G which is 1G". With sat S we look along the are to the number of this difference 16 at t andpunch T. rThen swing the chart until the -waist measure 26 at t comesover T and punch through u the point U on the pattern. Now holding thechart still, look along curve 16 to u at the difference 1G and punchthrough the point V on the pattern. Now swing the chart until c comesover V and look along the curve 16 to point fw at the waist measure 26and punch point W on the pat tern. This is a point on the under arm seamnear the waist but not necessarily at the waist. To determine the underarm seam and waist point the right hand edge n oi' the chart is used asja guide beginning with the point 1995 on the scale (from Fig. 3) whichis placed at M. A line is then drawn through point W to N which is foundfrom the waist point p on edge n. ln the example taken the points W andN happen to come very close together. The left hand edge of the chart,and the vertical lines through s, u, and fv constitute base lines forthe respective measurements. The shape of the darts or cut-outs is laidoiln from the dart curve member of Fig. 5. Where the ligure is normal orstraight front the left hand edge is used as a guide beginning at theupper end placed at point Q and drawing down through T. Then turn thedart curve member over and repeat the curve from Q through S. The seconddart lines are drawn in the same manner from R through U and V. When theligure has a prominent abdomen the right hand edge of the dart curvemember is used so that a smaller cut-out is laid oli. To lay orf thecurve from the waist line to the hip under the-arm, the chart of Fig. 6is used. The point g at waist measure point 26 is placed at point N andthe point r is placed against the dart curve R V and the point O ischecked oit on the pattern adjacent the lower hip measure point 4A. Thecurve N O is then drawn using the edge (Fig. G) as a guide beginning atthe left end laid at N. Tf the abdomen is prominent then the point r onthe hip curve member is brought onto the curve R V. This gives lesscloth in the pattern between the second dart and ythe hip seam. Theshoulder line B C, side line M N and hip line N O correspondrespectively with the lines B C, M N, N O of Fig. 1 and Fig. 3.

For the sleeve pattern the charts of Figs. 7 and 8 are used. The elbowmeasure is laid off from X to 12. The length from elbow measure oit' 14at the upper end of the chart Fig. 7. The right hand edge of the chartis used to draw the inner curve and the left hand edge to draw the outercurve. The outer curve is however drawn from point Y up to the arm holeseam and from Y down to the wrist. Similarly the arm hole curve is drawnby placing point Z on the upper edge at .e and drawing first to the leftand then to the right. The inner arm pattern is laid oli from the chartof Fig. 8 in the While 1 have shown the sizes laid oli" in inchesobviously any other system of measurement might be used.

What T claim is 1. A chart for a garment pattern having the upper edgecurved and with neck measures laid olii' on the curve, having anotheradjoining edge corresponding with the center line of the back with ascale of lengths of back from neck to waist laid olf along said edgemeasured from the neck curve with the zero point at the neck anddiiierent waist measures opposite the back points, another edge belowthe back edge with a scale spaced below the scale of back lengths andhaving iigures corresponding to the back length figures to providepoints indicating the hip lines for corresponding lengths of back anddifferent hip measures opposite the hip points so provided, another edgeadjoining said upper edge representing the average shoulder seam curve,another edge adjoining said shoulder seam edge representing the averagearm seam curve and the neXt edge curved and representing the averageseam curve from arm to waist line, said chart having points indicatingthe junction of the shoulder seam with the arm seam for dierent bustmeasures and other points indicating the junction of the arm seam withthe arm-to-waist seam at corresponding bust measures.

2. A chart for a garment side pattern having one edge curved andrepresenting the average arm seam curve, an adjoining edge curved andrepresenting the seam from arm to waistline and having the measures oflength of back laid oli along said latter edge beginning at the arm seamcurve and a scale of diii'erent waist measures opposite the back points,another edge below said back length edge with a scale corresponding tothe scale of back lengths to provide points indicating hip lines for thedifferent lengths of back and different hip measures opposite the hippoints, an edge adjoining the arm seam edge curved and representing theaverage seam curve from arm to waist line, said chart having vpointsindicating the junction of the arm scam with the arm to waistseam atdifferent bust measures.

3. A chart for a. garment under arm pattern having one edge curved andrepresenting the average arm seam curve, an adjoining edge representingthe seam from arm to waist line having bust measures laid oft' at theupper end thereof for locating the at f junction of the arm seam Withthe arm to Waist seam and having a scale of measures of length of backlaid off along said edge beginning at the arm seam curve and differentWaist measures opposite the back points, another edge below the backlength edge with a scale corresponding to the scale of back lengths toprovide points indicating hip lines corresponding to the different.

lengths of back and different hip measures opposite the different hippoints, an end edge adjoining the arm sea-m edge representing theaverage seam curve from under arm to waist line and having marks laidlaid off along said edge indicating the distance from the Waist line tothe under arm seam, said chart having points indicating the junction ofthe arm seam With the under arm to Waist seam at different bustmeasures.

l. A chart for a garment pattern having a scale of length of backmeasures along one side edge and Wai-st line measures opposite theretofor determining the Waist line and another scale of the same measuresalong an edge parallel to the lower end ofthe back measure scale andoffset therefrom, hipY line measures opposite thereto for determiningthe hip line, whereby upon connecting the Waist and hipy line points therequired flare is given to the pattern, and points indicating the armseam corners at different bust measures.

A chart for a garment front pattern having a vertical front seam lineand a pivotal point at the top thereof, a series of lines of measures onarcs concentric With each other andhaving their common center at saidpivotal point and laid olf at different distances corresponding Withdiagonal measurements from neck to Waist at the side a series of rovvsof poi-nts indicating the positions of the tops of one or more darts fordifferent bust measures at different distances from the neck, a seriesof scales of frac tional Waist measures laid off along said concentriclines, a series of observation points such as s to register with thepoints on said waist measure scale, when the chart is swung, a series ofscales laid off on said concentric lines beginning with said observationpoints and representing fractions of the di'erence between the bust andWaist measures and other fractional Waist measures laid olf on saidconcentric lines for determining the under arm side of the pattern.

6. A chart for the front portion of a garment pattern having a series ofscales of` measures laid off on concentric curves beginning vwith aseries of points constituting a base line, the first scale representingWaist measures laid off therefrom, a line of observation pointsconstituting a second base line, the second scale representing thedifference between bust and Waist measures being laid od from the secondbase line, the third scale representing waist measures laid oli`ltherebeyond, another line constituting a third base line, the fourthscale representing the difference between bust and Waist measures laidoli beyond the third base line, another line of observation pointsconstituting a fourth base line, the fifth scale representing Waistmeasures laid off from the fourth base line.

7. A chart for the front portion of a garment pattern having a linerepresenting the center line of the front portion, series of pointsindicating the location of the intersections of the shoulder and sideseams with the arm seam at different bust measures and having one edgecurved With a scale of bust measures laid off along it for determiningthe curve connecting said points of intersections of the shoulder andside seams with the arm seam.

8. A chart for a. garment comprising an under arm portion having an armcurve a. scale of length of back and points for indicating the locationof the Waist line along one edge and having the opposite edge /i curvedand with a scale laid off' for determining the distances from the Waistline to the under arm point, a front portion with points for indicatingthe location of the arm curve and the direction of the Waist line andhaving one edge n curved and With a scale corresponding with said firstmentioned scale for locating the under arm Waist point substantially asdescribed.

9. A chart for a garment pattern comprising, a back portion having neckmeasures laid off along one edge, length of back measures laid olf alonganother edge, waist measures indicated opposite thereto, pointsindicating the intersection of the sl'ioulder and arm seams and theintersection of the arm. and Waist to arm seams at different bustmeasures, a side back portion having length of back measures laid offalong one edge, Waist measures indicated opposite thereto and pointsindicating the intersection of the arm and Waist to arm seams atdifferent bust measures, an under arm portion having bust measures laidoff along the upper end of one edge and length of back measures laid offalong the lower end of the same edge, Waist measures indicated oppositethereto and points indicating the intersection of the arm and Waist toarm seams at different bust measures, and a front portion having neckmeasures laid olf along one edge, points indicating the intersection ofthe shoulder and arm seams and the arm and Waist to arm seams atdifferent bust measures, andpoints indicating the location of the waistline.

l0. A chart for a pattern for the front portion of a garment providedwith a neck portion and: having a series of concentric curves laid olfat diiferent distances from a common center point at the front of theneck portion corresponding to diferent diagonal measurements from thefront of the neck to a point at the Waist line below the arm and scaleslaid oil" along said curves for determining the size of gores and thelocation of the under arm Waist point substantially as described.

11. A chart for a pattern for a front portion of a garment comprising asheet having an opening representing the front of the neck at the baseof the collar, a neck curve With a scale thereon, shoulder and armcurves and scales for determining the 1 ANNESLEY DE LOS SMITH.

lrVtnesses:

G. H. MITCHELL, ROBT. S. ALLYN.

fopies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressingthe Commissioner of Patents,

Washington, JD. G.

It is hereby certified that in Letters Patent No. 1,136,055, grantedApril 20, 1915, upon the application of Annesley De Los Smith, of MountVernon, New York, for an improvement in Charts for Garment-Patterns,errors appear in the printed specification requiring correction asfollows: Page l, lines 7 74, and 86, for the Word soye read size; samepage, line 9T, for the Word measure read measures; page 3, lines 5() and53, for the Word seye read Size; page 4, line l1, for the Words an endread (md fm; and that the said Letters Patent should be read with these-correetions therein that the same may conform to the record of the casein the Patent Oiiee.

Signed and sealed this 25th day of May, A. D., 1915.

[SEAL] R. F. WHITEHEAD,

Acz'ng Commissioner of Patents.

